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73 km north of Amman, and a short journey northwest
from Jerash, through a beautiful pine-forest and olive groves, brings
you to the town of Ajloun, where Hadrian stayed over the winter
of 129-30 AD, and built himself an arch well outside the town, leaving
unbonded its sides for future city walls to come out to meet it.
Here you will find the Castle of Ajloun or Qalaat Errabadh (Arabic
for "Hilltop Castle"), from which there is a splendid
view westwards into the Jordan Valley. It looks like a Crusader
fortress, but it was built by Muslims in 1184-85 as a military fort
and buffer to protect the region from invading Crusader forces.
It was built on the orders of the local governor, Ezz Eddin Osama
bin Munqethe, a nephew of the Ayyubid leader Salahuddin Al-Ayyoubi
(Saladin), as a direct retort to the new Latin castle of Belvoir
(Kawkab El-Hawa) on the opposite side of the valley between the
Tiberias and Besan, and as a base to develop and control the iron
mines of Ajloun.
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This superb example of Arab and Islamic architecture was
built as a rectangle with four square towers and an entrance on the south
side dominating a wide stretch of the north Jordan Valley and passages
to it. From its hilltop position, the Castle of Ajloun protected the communication
routes between south Jordan and Syria, and was one of a chain of forts,
which lit beacons at night to pass signals from the Euphrates as far as
Cairo.
Two years after it was completed the fortress's original
purpose had already been outlived, for Salahuddin defeated the Crusaders
at the battle of the Horns of Hattin in 1189, which marked the beginning
of the end of their occupation of the Holy Land.
In 1214-15 the Castle of Ajloun was enlarged by Aybak bin
Abdullah, majordomo of the Caliph Al-Muazham Isa; in 1260 it fell to the
Mongols, but was later rebuilt by the Egyptian Mamluks. No longer needed
for military purposes, it was used as an administrative center responsible
to Damascus.
Some of the stones with which the castle was built
have crosses carved into them, giving credence to a tradition, recounted
by a 13th century Arab historian that: "an ancient monastery once
stood on the site, inhabited by a Christian named Ajloun; when the monastery
fell into ruin, the castle took its place and the name of the monk".
The castle today is beautifully preserved and is a popular attraction
for foreigners & Jordanians alike. The structures, towers, chambers,
galleries and staircases that form part of the town as well as the beautiful
scenery that surrounds the hills nearby will captivate you.
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